Low-Risk Driving  a skill for LIFE 

- - - - - - - - - - Road Safety by Dieter Fischer - - - - - - - - - -

ISBN No. 0 09577 426 06   

   Your  SAFETY  is  Driving

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                            A.2  HOW NOT TO STALL THE CAR!                                        

Stalling the engine is part of learning to drive. But if it happens too frequently, a lack of understanding the functions of accelerator and clutch may be the cause. To explain how a clutch works, the link between engine and road wheels, take a look at the following picture:


The small man ( = the car engine) is trying to move the very large car. Unfortunately he is not big enough for the job. Pressing the accelerator powers up the tiny man (your engine), making him big and strong to move the car.

There is a distance between man and car. To make the man strong at this position is not enough. His power ( the engine’s power) has to be transferred to the car’s wheels. This process happens every time the clutch pedal is withdrawn off the floor for take-off and for gear changing. Bringing the clutch up therefore, must be done in two stages: somewhat fast to the point (the biting point) where the power is starting to impact (move) the car. Then after a 2-3 second pause, slowly withdraw the clutch until fully out (engaged).

Keep this picture in your mind and try a smooth take-off:

 

1. Give the engine sufficient power to make the tiny man strong and keep him that way.
2. Withdraw the clutch pedal to close the gap (fairly quickly) but only until you feel the car respond. You will hear the noise of the engine drop to a lower pitch.
 3. Freeze both feet as you release the handbrake.
4. Move away slowly as you take 2-3 seconds to withdraw the clutch fully. (Experienced drivers take less)

Stalling is mainly caused by either:

  • Insufficient power, withdrawing the clutch without first accelerating.
  • Taking power away halfway through the take-off procedure.
  • Transferring the power all of a sudden with a mighty jolt. (This may result in a wheel spin, instead of stalling).

 

The Hill-start is covered in greater detail at

  Section F:43

A HILL-START is basically the same procedure as moving off on level ground, except:

Power up the engine more than on level ground.

Withdraw clutch out further than on level ground.

When you feel the forward-pull of the engine, release the *handbrake (keep power) and drive off smoothly, gradually increasing power even further.

*The handbrake functions much the same way as a bicycle cable brake.

Rolling back is caused by releasing the handbrake prematurely, before sufficient power has been transferred to the wheels. In this case, pull the handbrake back on and withdraw the clutch a tiny bit further.

Disclaimer: Above information could vary in your part of the world. We take no responsibility for any accidents or failed driving tests, even if the advise in this book has been followed. We recommend you use above information in conjunction with a professional driving instructor. Site copyright ©driving-school.com.au  2001 / Revised 2010

Here is a little test to remember what you have learned. Firstly, answer the True / False question. Secondly, using the letter beside the correct answer, form a word. All answers are on  this page!

  T>   G

The clutch should be withdrawn off the floor in two stages.     F>   O
  T>   L As soon as the car moves I can let go of the accelerator.    F>   A
  T>   O The handbrake is only necessary when taking off on a hill.     F>    P 

 

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